Cuttingly analytical and hugely entertaining, Steven Poole’s latest polemic is insightful, incisive and incredibly elaborate in its exploration of our current obsession with food.
Just when he seems to have revealed everything, he unveils yet another window on the national affair with all things nutritional. From art to fashion to sex, he disembowels the pretentiousness of chefs, critics and foodies of every genre. Were his theories not so well argued, one would find it impossible to believe that the ‘foodie’ industry is so elaborate. Most alarming is Poole’s theory that food in all its myriad manifestations is in fact the new national religion: ‘Everywhere in the ideology of foodism we see a yearning for food to fill a spiritual void’. ‘Nonsense’ says common-sense, yet the arguments are made so cogently they are virtually irrefutable. This is an enthralling and thought-provoking look at one of the iconic activities of our age.